As promised, Mark Scriver’s photo of me doing a little surfing on Pushbutton, before the inevitable flip. The water’s going from right to left, the object of the game is to slide into the wave as its base and resist its request for you to leave. If you get into the sweet spot, you don’t have to fight the current: you stay still and the river flows past you. Talented people like Paul and Mark can stay quite a while, and do wild tricks. It’s really kicky to be in the middle of this massive deluge of water. Then, the wave twists the boat and it’s time for a nose full of water.
Sep
24